LUXOR		Quality of Remains
		Ease of Access
		Atmosphere & Setting

History & Occupation:

Originating as the ancient city of Thebes, Luxor takes its name from Al-Uksur, which in turn derives from the latin word Castrum. The site has been home to some of the most important temple complexes since the early days of Egyptian civilisation, and the west bank contains funerary temples and tombs of many Pharaohs and important persons. As a centre for the cult of Amon, Luxor was of prime importance to the Pharaohs and each and every one has built and embellished the monuments there, in particular the great complex of Karnak. In terms of Roman remains, the two sites we're particularly examining are the Luxor temple and the temple of Seti I on the west bank. The Luxoir temple was the second most important in the urban area after Karnak and was linked to the greater site by a road flanked by sphinxes. This temple was linked with the divine cult of the Pharaoh and the current remains were begun during the New Kingdom. In the 3rd century the temple was converted into a fort, with a perimeter wall, from which the town derives its current name. There are scant remains of the fort itself, though some walls can be seen and a number of Roman brick columned structures give evidence of this period. Statues from the Roman period have also been found in the temple complex. Just inside the fort wall, on the esplanade before the temple proper is a brick-built temple of Serapis, constructed in the reign of Hadrian. During the reign of Diocletian, the legion that was stationed in this fortress: Legion I Maximiana. This legion converted one of the halls of the Luxor temple into a chapel to the Imperial cult and home for the legion's standards. These legions were raised by Diocletian and it is that emperor whose image graces one of the walls of this room. This in turn became a church in the late Roman period. On the other side of the river, among the many temples and monuments, stands the temple of Seti I. This temple was a funerary temple constructed over the reigns of three Pharaohs but during the Roman period, when the temple may have been already the worse for wear, the temple was converted into workshops for artisans and then the compound was filled with Roman courtyard houses and a late Roman/Byzantine church.

Remains and Visit:

Luxor is the most archaeologically complex place on earth. There are more temples and monuments in a small area than anywhere else on the planet and for that reason alone is worth visiting. The great sites here (such as Karnak) and the famous ones (such as the Valley of the Kings) are the prime reason for most visitors, but the Roman fanatic will find their interest in the temples of Luxor and Seti I. The Luxor temple is largely New Kingdom Egyptian, but the temple of Serapis outside is fairly well preserved and the small church/temple built by the legion within the main temple is a pleasant and fascinating surprise. The other Roman constructions here are fragmented and much less compelling. On the west bank, many of the Temples are not visited by most organised tours and the only way to do so is to arrange a day of private visits, perhaps by taxi which is cheap, though sometimes terrifying. The temple of Seti I is not the best preserved temple on the west bank and the Roman courtyard building and church that are visible consist now only of low walls sadly overgrown with long grasses. Despite this there is something satisfying about visiting such a site where other tourists do not prowl and herd.

Images:

Late Roman church	Wall paintings in Roman church		Roman columns	Courtyard of Augustus
Temple of Serapis	Courtyard Building	Byzantine Church	Aerial view (c/o Google Earth)