This is
a somewhat misleading name. Although the area is quite fascinating
and contains some impressive remains, there is little to be seen
of seven aqueducts. The Aqua Claudia of 52 AD is the most impressive
(first 2 photos), on top of which ran the Anio Nova, and these ruins
alone make the journey out of the centre worthwhile. The Aqua Mariana
is a ditch that you will only find if you are looking for it, which
carries the water of the Aqua Iulia and the Aqua Tepula, though with
the exception of this ditch, nothing can be seen of the three. The
Aqua Marcia has largely vanished. There are traces of it here and
there (see photo 3), but along most of its length near to Rome is
was replaced in the late 16th century by the Aqua Felice of Pope
Sixtus V (see photo 4.) There are therefore only truly five aqueducts
that can be clearly viewed
in
the park.
One of these is not Roman, one is fragmentary, one is a ditch only
and the other two sit on top of one another. Alongside the aqueducts
in the park are several ruins of villas that will be dealt with separately
below. Secondly, the word 'park' is being
particularly kind. The area is a mixture of scrubland with some trees,
farmers' fields, allotments and a sizeable refuse tip. Do not expect
park-like conditions. Be prepared to explore as there are few delineated
paths and the area is not signed. Access to the park is simple. Take
the metro line A as far as Lucio Sestio.
When
there,
head down
the
Via
Lucio
Sestio until you see Via Lemonia on your left. Take that street and
after a few yards cross into the parkland. If you miss the Via Lemonia
there is no way in for several miles. Also, roughly 20% of the park
to the southeast, on the other side of the Via delle Capannelle which
neatly divides it, was completely fenced off during my last visit.
Note: Be
prepared for this trip. Take water and take maps. It can be easy to get
lost in the suburbs of Rome.


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Lying alongside
the Via delle Capannelle in an area of park that is sealed off (at
2007) are the remains of several villas. They can be seen from the
road and tantalise with the sheer scale of the remains, but are sadly
inaccessible at this time. Of these remains the most impressive is
the villa of Septimius Bassus, which sprawls over a hill and covers
and absolutely staggering area. It is truly the largest villa complex
I have ever seen. The villa dates from the time
of Antoninus Pius, and the main part (the residential area) dates
from early in his reign, the public areas date from around 145 AD
in the middle period of his rule, and a huge landscaped garden including
a stadium, much like that of Domitian on the Palatine though smaller,
was added towards the end of the reign. The owner of the villa is
not confirmed but it is believed to be connected with Septimius Bassus,
who was a prefect under Septimius Severus. This whole area of land
has only recently been acquired by the state and it may be some time
(if ever) before the ruins become accessible to the public.

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Close to
the entrance on the Via Lemonia lies the extensive but somewhat fragmentary
remains of a large country villa. The visible remains that stand
freely in parkland date from the 2nd century AD, with alterations
in the 4th century. During my last visit, a large area was fenced
off and undergoing excavation at the time. Of the remains, part consists
of the thermal baths with a circular hall. The villa belonged (according
to an inscription on a lead pipe) to Quintus Servilius Pudens. Near
the ruins, next to the Aqua Felice, stands a huge water cistern on
two storeys that was fed by the Aqua Marcia. This villa will be the
first thing you see as you enter the park and you will walk past
it to reach the aqueducts.

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