Visiting Rome.
This is not intended to be a great tourist guide, but some pointers for the archaeological sights.
TRANSPORT
Transport in Rome is remarkably easy. There are two Metro lines that cover much of the city (with a third line currently being constructed). Trams cover most of the city (with the exception of the very centre.) Buses are very numerous and frequent up to midnight. Some people will suggest to buy a Roma Card for E20. This gives three days free travel and access to two sites free and a discount to others. This is a good deal if you are only visiting limited sites. Otherwise, but a 3 day travel pass for E11 and a separate card for the sites. Either way, the three day pass is valid on metro, buses, trams and the local rail services. It will get you as far as Ostia and should be all you need for travel.
Travel map in PDF format (large but indespensible)
ACCESS TO SITES
Rather than the E20 Roma Pass, which gives only limited access to sites, buy a 3 day travel pass for E11 and an archeological card for E20. This card gives free access to Colosseum, Crypta Balbi, Baths of Diocletian, Palazzo Altemps, Palazzo Massimo, Baths of Caracalla, Tomb of Cecilia Metella, Villa of the Quintili & the Palatine. In the long run you'll save money and an awful lot of time and hassle. Other sites will be detailed at the entrance.
THE HIDDEN SITES
A number of sites are almost always overlooked by the visitor and yet are more worthy of visiting than the more famous ones. Find these out of the way sights:
Porta Maggiore & Tomb of Eurysaces
SITE PERMISSIONS
There are a vast number of sites in Rome that require special prior permission to visit. Despite several trips I have never yet had time to arrange these. The situation in Rome seems to change every time I visit. Some locations that are officially permission only have been open with a man collecting tickets (Mausoleum of Augustus on my 2nd visit). Some places that are officially open require permission (Auditorium of Maecenas on my 3rd visit.) There are many 'official' websites on Rome's hidden sights, but they often give conflicting info. My best suggestion is to go everywhere you want to see, but be prepared to be disappointed periodically. Officially, to gain permission you need to phone or fax 0667103819. I never received a reply to my fax, so good luck.
Subterranean Rome - This is a group that specialises in tours of the hidden underground parts of Rome, including many permission only sights.
Roma Turismo - Claims to have a list of permission only sights, but again it does not seem entirely accurate.
Rome's Archaeological Superintendent - Unfortunately the site is in Italian only. This is the department to apply for permission.
WHAT NOT TO MISS
Baths of Caracalla - The best preserved baths of Rome.
Colosseum - Little more need be said.
Domus Aurea - Very atmospheric.
Palatine, Imperial Fori and Roman Forum - Again, speak for themselves.
Pantheon - The best preserved Roman building.
Porta San Paolo & Pyramid of Caius Cestius - Unusual monument.
San Clemente - Amazing complex of Roman structures beneath a church.
Theatre of Marcellus - A beautiful survival.
Via Appia and the tombs - A half-day's walk at least.
Villa of the Quintili - Remarkably preserved remains.
DAY TRIPS
There are several places that day trips can be made from Rome. Among the best are:
Ostia: See elsewhere on this site for details of Ostia, Italy's third great ruined city along with Pompeii and Herculaneum. Ostia is only a short distance down the Tiber. The train leaves regularly for Ostia from the Ostiense station next to the Porta San Paolo and the Pyramid. The trip takes only 30 minutes and is free if you have a travel pass. When visiting Ostia budget a whole day and take plenty of drinking water.
Tivoli: Towards the Appenines lies Tivoli. It is a beautiful town with a temple and amphitheatre, but also with the magnificent ruins of Hadrian's villa laid out below. Take Metro Line B to Ponte Mammolo and there find the Cotral bus for Tivoli. There are two Cotral buses for Tivoli. One goes stright to the town and the other via Hadrian's Villa so select carefully. The trip takes around an hour. Be warned that Hadrian's villa lies almost two miles from the town centre and the town is on a high hill, so be prepared for buses or extra walking if you wish to visit both.
Via Appia and Park of the 7 Aqueducts: This is easy but involves a lot of walking. For a full day, take Metro line A as far as Lucio Sestio and walk the park of the aqueducts down to the Via delle Capannelle. Make your way from there onto the Via Appia and then walk the Appia back up to the walls of the city. For details, see the appropriate pages, and make sure to have a map (for it's easy to get lost in the suburbs) and plenty of drinking water.