CARTHAGE		Quality of Remains
		Ease of Access
		Atmosphere & Setting

History & Occupation:

Carthage should require as little a historical description to even the amateur historian as Rome or Istanbul. Founded by the Phoenicians in the 9th century BC, it became the centre of one of the Mediterranean's greatest historical empires: the Carthaginians. Carthage remained powerful for centuries and were acknowledged as masters of the sea until the conflict with Rome grew out of their involvement in Sagunto in Spain. The three Punic wars that lasted from 264 to 146 BC left Carthage defeated at Roman hands and the city was razed to the ground, the nearby city of Utica being chosen as the main population centre based on its support of Rome. Carthage was rebuilt several decades later and colonised as farm land. Julius Caesar then rebuilt the failed colony and from that point on, Carthage went from strength to strength, ever increasing in size, prestige, power and wealth. It became Rome's African capital, a centre for Byzantine Christianity and exhibits not only all the great public buildings expected of a Roman city, but also the Christian relics of a great Byzantine city. Carthage was, at its height, one of the most powerful cities of the Roman world and has left us remains that explain why. Carthage owes its survival as a site to the wars between the Byzantines and the Muslim conqerors, who chose to raze Carthage once more and concentrate the new population centre at nearby Tunis. This is, clearly, a very succinct history. Carthage is a subject for a website of its own and further information can be found almost anywhere.

Remains and Visit:

It is possible to visit all of Carthage's remains on foot in one day, though it is hard work. We had to forego the last few items on our agenda (the Magon quarter, the admiralty buildings on the island, the palaeochristian museum and the Tophet site because we combined the day with the Bardo museum in nearby Tunis and ran out of time before sundown. The train from Tunis maritime runs along the coast and stops at several places in Carthage. Starting at the Sidi Bou Said stop (with a possible side trip there if you feel you have time), you can visit: The basilica of St Cyprian in its secluded woodland by the sea, the basilica of Damous El Karita with its interesting structures, the fragmentary Baths of Gargilius with the lovely colonnades, and then turn right to two of the greatest sights. The great La Malga cisterns are an impressive sight, where the aqueduct from Zaghouan finally reaches the city. Do not miss out like so many tourist buses who stand on the platform and look down on the marvel. Make sure you go down the ruins. Even if they are roped off (which most isn't) the workers are happy to show you the interior for a tiny fee. With our sparse French, we had a fascinating conversation with an archaeological worker, who gave us all the dimensions and capacities of the structure. Across the road from here is the amphitheatre. If you are careful or lucky, you will get to see this wondrous place without three coach loads of tourists around you. From here the next stop would be the Byrsa hill with its ruins, cathedral and museum. Below that you can make your way back north to the theatre and the archaeological park with its streets, villas and the Roman odeon. The theatre is largely reconstructed and often used for modern performances and the odeon has almost vanished, but both are worth a visit. From here, a walk down the road to the sea brings you to the Archaeological park with the impressive Antonine baths. These alone will require more than a half hour to even scantily visit. A last stretch from here along the coast will bring you to the famous harbours of Carthage and then the various items that I listed as having missed due to time constraints. Advice then: Do not share Carthage in a day with anything else. To see it fully requires the whole day.

Images:

Basilica of St Cyprian	Basilica of Damous El Karita	Baths of Gargilius	Carthage Aqueduct	Great Cisterns
Great Cisterns	Amphitheatre	Amphitheatre	Byrsa Ruins	Roman villa
Theatre	Roman Housing	Roman Street	Roman Street	Roman Street
Courtyard Villa	Eagle Carving	Odeon	Antonine Baths	Antonine Baths
Antonine Baths	Magon Quarter	Military Harbour from above	Military Harbour